Harlem

Eve Arnold’s photographs of 1950s Harlem capture a vibrant community at the center of the civil rights movement. The fashion show prominently featured in this selection was held in a deconsecrated Abyssinian Church, part of a series of events spotlighting local black designers and models both celebrating their culture and protesting the white-dominated fashion industry’s neglect. Arnold, inspired by the community, spent a year documenting these women behind the scenes. Arnold’s presence came as a surprise to the all-black audiences, but by shadowing models backstage, she achieved remarkable candid shots that, in an era where fashion imagery was elaborate and staged, were way ahead of their time. Arnold later stated that she intended to learn, not intrude. Her images reveal intimate moments like models checking makeup or squeezing into garments. This approach of fading into the background defined Arnold’s work. Notably, the celebrated model Charlotte Stribling, or “Fabulous,” features in many photos, collaborating with Arnold and exuding a sharp awareness in front of the camera. The shows, held in churches and nightclubs, posed lighting challenges, pushing Arnold to master available light. This technique became her trademark, lending a natural quality to her work. Today, this series stands as a powerful record of a vibrant subculture during a time of rare positive portrayals of black communities.